4 fine Irish whiskies for The Holiday

In honor of that day when everyone is Irish, here are some thoughts on my favorite Irish whiskies, just in time for celebrating St. Patrick’s Day next Thursday. Don't fear that only two different distillers are represented. Unlike the U.S. and Scotland with their many, many distilleries, Ireland has only three.

These are excerpted from my Dowd’s Tasting Notes blog.

BLACK BUSH

I recently found myself in McGrievey's, a classy restaurant and tavern just steps from the Hudson River in Waterford, NY, the nation's oldest incorporated village. What better whisky to order in a place with an Irish name than this Bushmill's gem I hadn't had in several years.

Standard Bushmill's, the Northern Ireland-made golden amber whisky, is a fine example of the genre. But the distiller's Black Bush takes enjoyment to a much higher plane.

Black Bush is frighteningly smooth and, thus, almost too easy to sip. It offers a slightly floral nose, quickly opening up over a couple of ice cubes or a splash of water. The initial notes of caramel, vanilla and spice blend harmoniously into a continuous treat for the palate.

Suggested retail price: $29.99 for the 750ml bottle.

JOHN L. SULLIVAN IRISH WHISKEY

Sullivan's was one of the first Irish American names I learned as a kid. The last bare-knuckle world heavyweight boxing champion who hung 'em up in 1889 after a 75-round title defense was a familiar sight in posters and illustrations that abounded in athletic clubs, saloons and meeting halls. This tribute whiskey comes from the Cooley Distillery, Ireland's only independently owned distillery.

This is a small-batch blend of single grain and single malt whiskeys, aged 4 to 10 years in used American white oak barrels that had contained bourbon. That gives Sullivan a touch that has helped so many Scotch whiskies gain extra notes of smooth maturity.

John L. was a complex man, said the sports scribes of his day, so it is only fitting that the whiskey bearing his name is likewise. I detected layers of spice, citrus and then vanilla, coupled with the light oakiness of the bourbon cask. That is followed by touches of rosewater, honey and cinnamon, with the latter clinging slighty to the long finish. I much preferred this whiskey over a cube of ice to release its notes, although I admit it wasn't at all bad in a Manhattan, a testament to its bourbon-like character.

Suggested retail price:$24 for the 750ml bottle.

BUSHMILLS 1608

In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of being awarded its license to distill by King James I, and did it with a very special whiskey. This particular commemorative was made using something known as "crystal malt." I'm admittedly partial to Bushmills and Black Bush, a pair of very easy to drink Irish whiskies from the iconic Northern Ireland distillery's line. This, the sixth style but in limited quantities, has lately been available only at the distillery store, but your favorite spirits merchant will be on sale in the U.S. only from February through December next year. After that it will be available only at the distillery store.

Bushmills 1608 is a worthy special blend. The crystal malt -- which has a crystallized appearance when germinated, and thus still moist, barleycorns are lightly toasted -- introduces a sweet, toffee note to the final product. Also in the mix are notes from the classic Bushmills malt whiskies matured in a combination of used American white oak and Spanish Oloroso sherry casks.

Bushmills whiskies in general tend toward the sweet side of the palate, and 1608 doesn't diverge from that path: vanilla, honey and toffee notes are prevalent, and the finish reminds me of a high-grade dark chocolate. All these elements work well with the slightly higher than average potency -- 46% alcohol by volume, or 92 proof.

Suggested retail price: $100 for the 750ml bottle.

MICHAEL COLLINS 10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT

Michael Collins, like John L. Sullivan from the Cooley distillery, is re-booting its image and a New York importer is helping them do it. Sidney Frank Importing Company of New Rochelle has teamed up with Cooley Distillery to launch the new look of Michael Collins whiskies in the U.S. The dark, moody label features the iconic silhouette of Collins, the renowned Irish patriot, on his bicycle, a familiar sight during the nation's struggle for independence from England. The brightness comes inside.

Cooley is considered to be the only distillery in Ireland to double distill its whiskeys and use peated malted barley. What that process has has resulted in is a wonderfully smooth, yet still kicky whiskey. There is a definite spice note to each sip, perfectly compatible with the rich, deep body of the whiskey.

I find this not as pleasing in a cocktail as I did over a single ice cube in a tasting glass. Must be the independent Collins spirit asserting itself.

Suggested retail price: $39.99 for the 750ml bottle.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks home page.

The whisk(e)y season is dear to Ireland, Scotland

An 1890s tavern poster

The portal is about to open on a season dear to the Gaelic and Celtic folk of Ireland and Scotland and, indeed, their millions of descendants all over the U.S.

March 21 brings in Alban Eiler, known elsewhere as the spring solstice or vernal equinox. Weather be damned, it means spring has arrived and will last until June 20, the longest day of the year, when we will encounter Alban Heruin, the summer solstice.

In between, we have such frolics as St. Patrick’s Day on March 17 and Tartan Day in early April 6. The precise date depends on local activities.

St. Patrick’s Day honors the patron saint of Ireland who drove the snakes into the sea where they became sharks, politicians and TV reality show producers.

Tartan Day celebrates that time in A.D. 1320 when King Robert the Bruce and his Scottish Parliament sent off a letter called the "Declaration of Arbroath" to the Pope in Rome, asking him to get the English off their backs. That worked so well that England rules Scotland to this day.

Both historic events, as well as the arrival of Easter, spring and a bunch of other traditional religious and secular days, will in this span be marked in many communities with once-a-year church attendance, parades, festivals, dances, silly hats and drink specials at your favorite pub — featuring Scotch and Irish whiskies, in particular.

The line between Scotch and Irish distillations is blurry for some (although the Scots, along with Canadians, spell whiskey without the "e.") The difference comes primarily in the malting stage.

For Scotch whisky, malted barley is dried over peat fires, which allows the smoke to penetrate the grain and create its signature smokey flavor. For Irish whiskey, malted barley is dried in closed ovens and never comes in contact with smoke.

In addition, Scotch whiskies usually are distilled once or twice, Irish whiskies three times or more, thus increasing their purity and smoothness. In some instances, further aging in used bourbon or sherry casks or a bit of blending creates a crossover taste between the two categories.

As is the case with most such things, there is no right or wrong, best or worst. There is only personal preference.

Whatever your choice, happy holidays.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks home page.